Jimsgarage
New member
Terve!
Pistän tähän tekstin, jonka löysin, sekä muutaman kuvan modista..
-- Lainaus --
Hey guys. I upgraded my 2001's clutch to the 2002-2003 version. What a great improvement! I think everyone should
do this mod. It takes less time than changing your oil and the parts cost less than $30 from http://www.ronayers.com.
This mod will cure the dreaded clutch chatter/grab that we’re all well aware of.
From this drawing...
order parts #13, #14, and #15. Those 3 parts replace the last fiber plate in the clutch stack. However,
that picture shows the wrong direction of part 14, and part 14 and 15 should be reversed. Here is the
correct way of installing the pieces. This is out of the service manual...
1) What you do is leave the bike in gear and on the sidestand. There is no need to drain the oil with the bike on
the side stand.
2) Remove the right fairing just as if you were going to change your oil.
3) Next, remove the clutch cover. It's the piece that has the oil fill plug and oil sight glass on it. There are 12
bolts around the cover.
4) After that is removed, you will see the clutch pressure plate with 6 bolts. Remove the 6 bolts and their springs.
The springs come out when you unscrew the bolts.
5) Next, remove all the clutch plates. There are 19 plates total. 10 fiber plates and 9 steel plates. Before you
remove the plates, notice the first (closest towards you, furthest from the inside of the bike) is installed in
different notches than the others.
6) When all the plates are out, take the last fiber plate you removed and toss it. #13 replaces it.
7) Coat the new parts in fresh oil.
8) Put in the new fiber plate.
9) Put in the new flat washer. The washer fits inside the new fiber plate.
10) Put in the new spring washer. The smaller diameter side should face the engine. Like, if it were a complete
cone, it would face towards the engine.
Now, put all the fiber plates back in the way the came out starting with a steel plate (that's excluding the old
fiber plate you removed. You should still have 10 fibers (9 old and 1 new one), 9 steels, the flat washer and spring washer.
11) put the clutch pressure plate back on (align the teeth on the back side of the pressure plate), install the
lutch springs and tighten the clutch spring bolts back down. Tighten the bolts diagonally. The service manual calls
for the bolts to be torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Tip: I found it hard to get the bolts started because the hub inside was moving,
so I partially screwed 2 bolts in without the springs and used them to pull the hub towards me so I could the bolts
started with the springs.
12) Bolt the clutch cover back on. The service manual calls for the 12 bolts to be torqued to 7 ft-lbs.
That’s it. Really, it was SUPER easy. My little sister helped me and she could do it herself now. Seriously. Everyone
with a 1999, 2000, and 2001 busa should do this mod. There really is no reason not to, unless you already have a
welded hub, which remove the back torque limiter feature.
Like I said, easier than changing your oil.
Actually, next time you guys change your oil, do this mod. You’ll already have the fairing off, which is the hardest
part. Trust me, you’ll love it.
-- Lainaus --
Mitäs mieltä olette..Täytyy varmaan tehdä seuraavan öljynvaihdon yhteydessä..
-- Jim --
Pistän tähän tekstin, jonka löysin, sekä muutaman kuvan modista..
-- Lainaus --
Hey guys. I upgraded my 2001's clutch to the 2002-2003 version. What a great improvement! I think everyone should
do this mod. It takes less time than changing your oil and the parts cost less than $30 from http://www.ronayers.com.
This mod will cure the dreaded clutch chatter/grab that we’re all well aware of.
From this drawing...
order parts #13, #14, and #15. Those 3 parts replace the last fiber plate in the clutch stack. However,
that picture shows the wrong direction of part 14, and part 14 and 15 should be reversed. Here is the
correct way of installing the pieces. This is out of the service manual...
1) What you do is leave the bike in gear and on the sidestand. There is no need to drain the oil with the bike on
the side stand.
2) Remove the right fairing just as if you were going to change your oil.
3) Next, remove the clutch cover. It's the piece that has the oil fill plug and oil sight glass on it. There are 12
bolts around the cover.
4) After that is removed, you will see the clutch pressure plate with 6 bolts. Remove the 6 bolts and their springs.
The springs come out when you unscrew the bolts.
5) Next, remove all the clutch plates. There are 19 plates total. 10 fiber plates and 9 steel plates. Before you
remove the plates, notice the first (closest towards you, furthest from the inside of the bike) is installed in
different notches than the others.
6) When all the plates are out, take the last fiber plate you removed and toss it. #13 replaces it.
7) Coat the new parts in fresh oil.
8) Put in the new fiber plate.
9) Put in the new flat washer. The washer fits inside the new fiber plate.
10) Put in the new spring washer. The smaller diameter side should face the engine. Like, if it were a complete
cone, it would face towards the engine.
Now, put all the fiber plates back in the way the came out starting with a steel plate (that's excluding the old
fiber plate you removed. You should still have 10 fibers (9 old and 1 new one), 9 steels, the flat washer and spring washer.
11) put the clutch pressure plate back on (align the teeth on the back side of the pressure plate), install the
lutch springs and tighten the clutch spring bolts back down. Tighten the bolts diagonally. The service manual calls
for the bolts to be torqued to 7 ft-lbs. Tip: I found it hard to get the bolts started because the hub inside was moving,
so I partially screwed 2 bolts in without the springs and used them to pull the hub towards me so I could the bolts
started with the springs.
12) Bolt the clutch cover back on. The service manual calls for the 12 bolts to be torqued to 7 ft-lbs.
That’s it. Really, it was SUPER easy. My little sister helped me and she could do it herself now. Seriously. Everyone
with a 1999, 2000, and 2001 busa should do this mod. There really is no reason not to, unless you already have a
welded hub, which remove the back torque limiter feature.
Like I said, easier than changing your oil.
Actually, next time you guys change your oil, do this mod. You’ll already have the fairing off, which is the hardest
part. Trust me, you’ll love it.
-- Lainaus --
Mitäs mieltä olette..Täytyy varmaan tehdä seuraavan öljynvaihdon yhteydessä..
-- Jim --
