G
Guest
Guest
Jep, tulpat on paikoillaan ja yritän repiä ne tänään irti. Pistän sitten kommentit sen jälkeen miten kävi, jos tiedoista olis muillekkin hyötyä.
Dynojet suutinsarja
- Keskustelun aloittaja w-mies
- Aloituspäivä
Ytsför
oma "titteli"
Jaa EXUPissako se vika olikin?
Joo, siinä pyörässä oli siis vakiosuuttimet paikoillaan, koot ja sijainnit löytyy korjauskirjasta (keskellä eri koko kuin reunoilla). Dynojet-neulat taisi olla ylimmässä tai toiseksi ylimmässä asennossa. Neulaputkista paikoillaan oli ne kiiltävämmät(tai sellaiset ne oli ainakin uusina), mutta periaatteessa toimii molemmilla, vanhat on vaan kuluneemmat.
Cterror
New member
ärsyttävä pikku perkele
siinä exupin ohjauksessa on sellainen kiva estopiiri joka lyö kierroksen rajoittajan päälle vikatilanteessa tasan 4000rpm. onneksi mulla oli ylimääräinen servo tallissa niin sai yyzeta sentään käymään niinkuin kuuluu
G
Guest
Guest
Noniin, johan alkoi vanha toimimaan! Repäsin ne "main air correctorit" sieltä mäelle ja pistin Dynojetin neulat takaisin. Nyt toimii pyörä paremmin kuin koskaan. Kiihtyy tasaisesti aina 1500 rpm -> 13500rpm ilman rykimisiä. Kaupungissa ajaminenkin onnistuu, eikä se tukehdu bensaan joka risteyksessä. Ajattelin jopa nostaa neuloja pykälän ylemmäs että ei sitten ylhäällä lopu tavara kesken. En tiedä, mutta en saanut niillä vakioneuloilla sitä laitetta pelittään kunnolla. Ehkä kaikki ongelmat johtui juuri niistä messinki tulpista, mitkä siellä oli paikallaan. Kiitti taas yzförille ja cterrorille tietotaidon jakamisesta.
Ainiin vielä piti kysellä, että miten ne neulaputket saa irti kaasareista. Kokeilin kiskoa niitä pihdeillä yläkautta, mutta ei ne lähteneet. Onko ne jollain ruuveilla kiin vai tuleeko alakautta pois. Mulla olis paremmat neulaputket olemassa.
Ainiin vielä piti kysellä, että miten ne neulaputket saa irti kaasareista. Kokeilin kiskoa niitä pihdeillä yläkautta, mutta ei ne lähteneet. Onko ne jollain ruuveilla kiin vai tuleeko alakautta pois. Mulla olis paremmat neulaputket olemassa.
Cterror
New member
periaatteessa ne voisi saada kiskottua yläkautta mutta suositeltavampaa on pikkutuurnalla naputtaa alakautta ylös. tässäpä siihen toimenpiteeseen on ohjeet. suomennan jos tarvitaan mutta muuten en jaksa
[quote chuckD]
Changing the tubes are a pretty easy procedure.
-You must pull the seat, tank, and airbox
-Then disconnect the choke cable
-Drain the float bowls with a piece of clear tubing and a top to a spray can/ carb cleaner can (to drain into) Remember not to over tighten them back up.
-Get a flashlight out, yes really you MUST have one to see which boots you can get to and where the heads to those screws are.
-Once you have found the screw heads, go fo it. This is so much easier said than done and it may vary on bike to bike how easy this may be, some people pull their coil panel just to be abl eto acess these fasteners. It doesn't matter which side you take off; leave the boots on the intake or the carbs, either way.
-Once you have removed the carbs from the engine, disconnect the throttle cables (ha,ha,ha, those that have done this love this part. Those that haven't will get good or give up, by the way; don't try this one @ midnight on a tuesday night, you will yell and scream and won't finish it until wed anyway so... And don't forget, a bit of gas is still in those bowls.
-Now that you have your carbs off, lay out a few rags on a flat, clean, and dust free surface and begin removing diaphrams; making sure to keep all parts with the proper carb #. AND THAT LITTLE O-RING IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
-Once all diaphrams are off, flip the carbs over and start pulling float bowl screws. Keep in mind that you will be going to the hardware store to replace at least one of those little buggers. I recomend getting allen heads, much easier for future use.
- Now that you have the carbs flipped over and all jets exposed, give a quick check-up, are the main jets correct and staggered correctly, is the float height off? and so on.
-Once you have done your pre inspection, pull floats and main jets.
-With the main jet out, gently wiggle the jet routing assy away from the base of the float surface. Be carefull not to damage the wazzzo gasket on the base.
-I usually do this one at a time to make things less confussing.
-Next, take a look at what you've got. You should be able to see the tube, yep that long brass one. To remove, tap lightly with a small deadblow or wood drift (piece of scrap) from the float side toward the diaphram side. The tube will come unseated and slowly work its way out.
- Now you can verify what you know, that your tubes are out of round and causing grief. The new ones only go in one way, so don't worry about that part, just don't forget to mark the bad/ old ones, oh does is suck to fudge up that way!
- To re-assy reverse procedure (I hate those haynes manuals as well!)
-I would check float level afterward just to verify that nothing was disturbed and remember!!!!!: the level of the carbs must allow the float to contact the needle, BUT NOT COMPRESS IT!
-If jetting assy complex gasket is damaged, replace, if anything is damaged, REPLACE IT, or you'll be right back here again soon. @ this time several riders will throw in a Factory Pro Jet kit because you're already there and why not if the $$$$ is available. It doesn't matter that much because you are not messing with jets when you drop in the kit, only needles and EPA plug/ idle mixture.
-Re-install carbs, cables (you lubed them right), and airbox (filter checked of course) and stop: YOU HAVE TO RE-SYNC CARBS!!!!
-If you don't have a mercury stick, well the options are not good. I have customers that have pulled the carbs off and brought them to me, then after I replaced tubes, they brought them home, re-assy and rode the bike down for a carb sync, considering all I would have to do is remove the seat and tank to access the plugs (oh what a royal burn your hand bitch those are.) These and any other help you give your mech always save you both time. Never let them care for your plastic if you want to save a bit of money. To remove fairings and re-install could cost from $20.00-$40.00 at some shops. Always check though, because service writters sometimes need missing pieces for test ride or work performed.
Also, to re-fill the float bowls, you must cycle the fuel pump a few times, this is done by flipping the on/off switch a few times. When the clicking stops, it's done
I hope this helps, I've done it probably 50 times so I have more than enough experience, it gets easier every time.
Good luck, if you need any help we're here to answer.
CHUCK D.
Edited by: Chuck D at: 5/3/04 11:14 am
[quote chuckD]
Changing the tubes are a pretty easy procedure.
-You must pull the seat, tank, and airbox
-Then disconnect the choke cable
-Drain the float bowls with a piece of clear tubing and a top to a spray can/ carb cleaner can (to drain into) Remember not to over tighten them back up.
-Get a flashlight out, yes really you MUST have one to see which boots you can get to and where the heads to those screws are.
-Once you have found the screw heads, go fo it. This is so much easier said than done and it may vary on bike to bike how easy this may be, some people pull their coil panel just to be abl eto acess these fasteners. It doesn't matter which side you take off; leave the boots on the intake or the carbs, either way.
-Once you have removed the carbs from the engine, disconnect the throttle cables (ha,ha,ha, those that have done this love this part. Those that haven't will get good or give up, by the way; don't try this one @ midnight on a tuesday night, you will yell and scream and won't finish it until wed anyway so... And don't forget, a bit of gas is still in those bowls.
-Now that you have your carbs off, lay out a few rags on a flat, clean, and dust free surface and begin removing diaphrams; making sure to keep all parts with the proper carb #. AND THAT LITTLE O-RING IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
-Once all diaphrams are off, flip the carbs over and start pulling float bowl screws. Keep in mind that you will be going to the hardware store to replace at least one of those little buggers. I recomend getting allen heads, much easier for future use.
- Now that you have the carbs flipped over and all jets exposed, give a quick check-up, are the main jets correct and staggered correctly, is the float height off? and so on.
-Once you have done your pre inspection, pull floats and main jets.
-With the main jet out, gently wiggle the jet routing assy away from the base of the float surface. Be carefull not to damage the wazzzo gasket on the base.
-I usually do this one at a time to make things less confussing.
-Next, take a look at what you've got. You should be able to see the tube, yep that long brass one. To remove, tap lightly with a small deadblow or wood drift (piece of scrap) from the float side toward the diaphram side. The tube will come unseated and slowly work its way out.
- Now you can verify what you know, that your tubes are out of round and causing grief. The new ones only go in one way, so don't worry about that part, just don't forget to mark the bad/ old ones, oh does is suck to fudge up that way!
- To re-assy reverse procedure (I hate those haynes manuals as well!)
-I would check float level afterward just to verify that nothing was disturbed and remember!!!!!: the level of the carbs must allow the float to contact the needle, BUT NOT COMPRESS IT!
-If jetting assy complex gasket is damaged, replace, if anything is damaged, REPLACE IT, or you'll be right back here again soon. @ this time several riders will throw in a Factory Pro Jet kit because you're already there and why not if the $$$$ is available. It doesn't matter that much because you are not messing with jets when you drop in the kit, only needles and EPA plug/ idle mixture.
-Re-install carbs, cables (you lubed them right), and airbox (filter checked of course) and stop: YOU HAVE TO RE-SYNC CARBS!!!!
-If you don't have a mercury stick, well the options are not good. I have customers that have pulled the carbs off and brought them to me, then after I replaced tubes, they brought them home, re-assy and rode the bike down for a carb sync, considering all I would have to do is remove the seat and tank to access the plugs (oh what a royal burn your hand bitch those are.) These and any other help you give your mech always save you both time. Never let them care for your plastic if you want to save a bit of money. To remove fairings and re-install could cost from $20.00-$40.00 at some shops. Always check though, because service writters sometimes need missing pieces for test ride or work performed.
Also, to re-fill the float bowls, you must cycle the fuel pump a few times, this is done by flipping the on/off switch a few times. When the clicking stops, it's done
I hope this helps, I've done it probably 50 times so I have more than enough experience, it gets easier every time.
Good luck, if you need any help we're here to answer.
CHUCK D.
Edited by: Chuck D at: 5/3/04 11:14 am
G
Guest
Guest
Puuuh! Vaikuttaa haasteelliselta! Tuo kaasareiden pois ottaminen ei oikein houkuta. No olkoon ne kuluneemmat paikallaan, kun se kerran niillä nyt pelittää.
Cterror
New member
all-right myy factory-pron suutin/neulasettejä. osta sellainen. maksoi mitä maksoi (n 140€listahinta)
ai kuinka niin dynojen ihmeellisiin käyntiongelmiin saa aina ottaa kantaa. mä olen niitä aika täynnä. plus että factory käyttää vakio suuttimia (suutinkoot pääteltävissä muutenkin kuin arvaamalla) joten jo sen syyn vuoksi factory-pro.
