Aikanaan kun mulla oli R1200 kopioin oheisen artikkelin jenkkisaitilta:
Ite en tuota kerennyt testaamaan kun hävitin fillarin veks, mutta tuossa tuo nyt on:
Voin tuon tietty kuvineen kaikkineen zipata ja lähettää sähköpostilla, jos pistät YV:nä osoitteesi.
------------------------
Alternate R1200 synchronization procedure
#764502 - 04:14 06/11/2006 Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
Here's a procedure that should achieve the same results as a full synchronization by a dealership using the BMW computer and tools. It's inspired by the procedure in the RepROM, easy and it seems to work well. Anyone wanna give it a shot and give me some feedback?
The BMW procedure does not adjust the idle mixture/synchronization. This is done automatically, constantly, in real time by your bike, through the use of a servo on each throttle body that controls residual airflow when the throttle valve is closed.
The BMW procedure only ensures that the throttle cables are synchronized. With the throttle cables synchronized, the valves open at exactly the same time. The idle control system makes up the difference in airflow between cylinders automatically.
The BMW procedure has 3 stages. First, the idle synchronization is verified. If idle synchronization is not achievable with the servos active, something is wrong with the engine or intake. The servos are disabled for the next two stages. The throttle cables are adjusted so that the valves open at the same time. The position of the idle servos does not matter as long as they do not change and there probably will be a vacuum differential between the two cylinders at idle and at load for this stage. The differential goes away when the servos are activated. Unlike a TB/carb sync on almost anything else, we're not trying to match the vacuums. The computer does that. We just just adjusting the throttle cables to account for stretch. The third stage is a verification that the synchronization has been achieved.
I don't think you can use a TwinMax with this procedure since it only measures relative differences. You need the absolute values for each cylinder, so that means using two traditional manometers. I use a Morgan CarbTune.
This is a simple one-beer operation...
You will need:
2 * 10mm open-ended wrenches. The smaller/thinner, the better.
2 * manometers (mercury sticks, a Morgan CarbTune, &c). You need to be able to obtain two separate absolute vacuum readings.
1. Start the motorcycle and warm it up to operating temperature. A 20 mile ride should suffice nicely. I think the folks with plenty of plastic have to take some off.
2. Clean the throttle bodies, especially around the nipples. Don't wanna get grit in the engine.
3. Attach the manometers to the throttle body nipples. You will need to remove the nipple cover on the right side and the hose from the emissions canister on the left first.
Nipple:
It's looking right at you...
Stage 1 - make sure idle sync is OK
4. Start the bike and let it idle. Blip the throttle a few times. The manometer average reading for both cylinders should be identical with the bike warmed up. On my bike, until the bike is warmed up, the readings will be a bit different (2cmHg or so).
Idle vacuum with idle control taking care of bidness
4a. If the idle sync isn't established, find out what is wrong. Check for intake obstructions or a messed up valve clearance. Maybe the idle control system failed.
Stage 2 - Adjust throttle cable synchronization
5. Turn the bike off. Unplug the connectors from both servos. You can do this by gently lifting on the tab at the top and pulling back on the connector. It's got a seal around the sides so it takes a tiny bit of effort. Restart the bike. It should idle normally. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a little bit rough but my bike with 6k miles on the clock has a perfect idle w/ the servos disconnected. There WILL be a difference in vacuum between the two cylinders. Probably. Pay attention to whether the left cylinder vacuum is higher or lower than the right cylinder vacuum.
Servo connector
Servo disconnected
Vacuum at idle with no idle control.
6. Slowly open the throttle. Both manometers should begin changing at the same time. The relative difference between the vacuums does not matter -- only that both columns begin moving at exactly the same time. If they do, skip to step 8.
7. Adjust the right-hand side cable.
Adjuster:
The locknut is the 10mm nut on the bottom. The adjuster nut is the 10mm on the top.
7a. Undo the locknut.
7b. If the column for the right cylinder moves BEFORE the column for the left cylinder, the cable needs more free play, so turn the adjuster nut clockwise. If the column for the right cylinder moves AFTER the column for the left cylinder, there is too much free play, so turn the adjuster counterclockwise. Small movements (1/8 a turn, or less) will suffice. Trial and error.
7c. When you get the two columns to change at the same time, tighten the locknut, and then re-check the setting to make sure you didn't lose your synchronization.
Stage 3 - Verification of settings
8. Rev the engine to 3000 rpms. Whichever cylinder had lower vacuum in step 6 should still have lower vacuum. If they don't then you botched step 7. The vacuums are not expected to match.
The vacuum readings are very close, but you can see the vacuum for the right cylinder is slightly lower than the vacuum for the left cylinder.
9. Turn off the bike, reconnect the servos, and restart the bike. Let it idle for a moment, blip the throttle a few times.
10. The vacuum readout at idle should be pretty much identical. The RepROM states within 15 mBar, or about 1 cmHg/10mmHg. If they are not, go back to step 4. Most likely you over-tightened the throttle cable and the right throttle valve is being held slightly open with the throttle closed.
11. The vacuum readout at 2k-3k-4k RPMs should be pretty much identical. Again within 15 mBar, or about 1 cmHg. If they are not, go back to step 7.
12. Disconnect manometers and reassemble motorcycle.
That's it! This may be a good time to apply dielectric grease to the various electrical connections. It's not necessary -- they have seals, and those have NEVER failed...
Now, why is this better than revving the bike to 4k in your garage and setting the sync by matching the vacuum levels? Because your engine will heat up rapidly at 4k RPMs and the idle control system will start dancing around. You will see identical vacuums but your throttle valves will not be opening at the same time. You could probably get the exact same result by actually riding your bike while you are adjusting it (so that the engine is homeostatic -- constant load, constant temperature, &c). But this is easier, safer and faster...
