ABS2
ABS2 was used on K1100 from 1994 onwards, R1100RS/RT/GS/R, R1200C, and to 2000~2002 on the R1100S, R1150GS, and K12 models.* The K11 ABS2 uses the same two warning lights as ABS1: the ABS light and the bulb monitor light. On Oilheads and K12s, it has two distinct lights of its own. At key-on, the two lights will flash together and continue to do so until the self-test is complete (which doesn't happen until you start to ride away), at which time they extinguish. If the self-test fails, they will begin to flash alternately. The exact moment when the fault happens will help you know what caused it: if it happens before you start the engine it is an item that is tested at power-up. If it fails when you start the engine, it is almost certainly low battery voltage. And if it fails when you ride away, it's probably a modulator or a wheel speed sensor.
Sometimes ABS2 will fault without showing a fault code that you can read without the diagnostic computer.
Resetting ABS2
•Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
•Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
•Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
•Turn on ignition. You should see the lights flash alternately.
•Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off.
•Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to count to 8, or your ground is not good, the top ABS light will stay off.
•Turn off ignition, remove wire.
Note: the K1200, R1200C and R1100S use the same ABS2 units as the 1150GS, but there is no ABS switch to use for the reset procedure. If you can access pin #21 on the ABS unit, you can ground it to achieve the same effect as having the ABS button. Pin #21 will be on the large connector to the ABS unit. I've gotten confirmation from K12 and R11S owners that they were successful. Here's one description:
"On my 2000 K1200LT the brown/blue wire was the correct wire to use on the diagnostic plug. You have to remove the large 25 pin connector from the ABS unit, remove one tie wrap and three phillips head screws on the connector (two are under the rubber that was held on by the tie wrap). After you have done this and exposed the wires and female connector plug you can see where pin 21 is numbered on the connector. I used a 14 gage wire with an aligator clip on one end with about 1/16" of copper exposed and plugged it in the pin 21 slot and reinstalled the connector without the connector housing. I then made sure it felt like I had good contact on pin 21. I then used a straight pin and another 14 gage piece of wire with an aligator clip to pin into the brown and blue wire on the maintenance connector and then aligator clipped this to the negative terminal on the battery. I then turned the key to on and then touched the aligator clip from pin 21 to the negative terminal on the battery (8 seconds is fine but mine immediately reset). The ABS lights went from alternate flashing to normal flashing simultaneously. I am adding a reset button before I reassemble the connector housing. Just have to find the right insert for that connector."
ABS1 and ABS2 fault codes
Info on diagnosing ABS1 and ABS2 faults is described by Brian Curry in great detail on the IBMWR K-tech pages. In a nutshell, by putting a readout light between the ABS pin and ground you can get a blink code when the bike is on. All codes except 5 seem to be persistent (needing reset by this procedure). There is also a BMW document, part 01 71 9 798 811 (5/90), that you may be able to locate which is for troubleshooting ABS.
•1. front pressure modulator
•2. rear pressure modulator
•3. front wheel speed sensor
•4. rear wheel speed sensor
•5. battery voltage too low
•6. ABS relay
•7. ABS control unit
•8. sensor gap front or rear, or other outsude influence
•9. <unknown, but seems to exist>
•16. reportedly "Failed plunger test" (also seems to be persistent)
Mitä tulee abs-yksikön hintaan, niin töineen ovh on jossain parin tonnin tienoilla. Mutta ei noi virekoodit nyt välttämättä tai edes yleensä meinaa sitä, että tuo yksikkö olisi finaalissa. Vaatii vaan seuraa / resetointia - mahdollisesti putsauksen.
Tota selitystä piisaa vielä vaikka kuinka paljon enemmänkin. Pistä YV'tä, jos haluat sähköpostissa enemmänkin tietoa.
BTW - Jos ABSII:n toimintalogiikka ja rakenne kiinnostaa, niin oheisen linkin takaa tietoa:
ABS-Logiikka
